Aug 062012
 

When I went to Japan a few months ago, I asked one of my good friends C if she’d like me to bring anything back. She’s the kind of girl who rarely asks asks for anything, so I was surprised when a few days later she had emailed me a massive list. “I’m so sorry,” she said, “But I’m obsessed with Japanese makeup and skincare. It’s so hard to get certain brands here in the U.S.”

Thus before we left, I promised to C that I’d dutifully visit Matsumoto Kiyoshi (a massive chain in Japan, kind of like Ulta) to pick up her requested items. I was curious about what would have driven this very normal girl born and raised in Minnesota to go so crazy about Japanese makeup – after some light Googling, came across a bunch of Japanese cosmetics fan sites. I also discovered a fantastic New York Times article here, describing the craze for Japanese cosmetics in the West. The article was fascinating, with quotes from women who described Japanese makeup as being a) better quality (even at the drugstore level) than what Western brands had to offer, b) produced within a much more competitive market than the West and thus held to a higher standard of excellence, and c) very waterproof due to the humid temperatures in Asia.

Of course after all of that research, I had to pick up some products for myself as well while in Japan. I’ve had a few months to test them all out and see if they were worth of their exhaulted status, and here are my thoughts.

These were five of my favorite products – Dolly Wink eyelash glue (recommended by Christine), Dolly Wink liquid eyeliner, Kiss Me Heroine mascara, Love Liquid liner, and random brand Q-tips.

I had tried liquid liner before, but it never worked on me until I tried Japanese brands. They are indeed very waterproof but wash off very easily with soap and water. The brushes on them are also very small and fine – easy to draw natural lines. Dolly Wink is available at several stores in the U.S as well as here. I loved these little cotton swabs because they were so small and incredibly precise for great attention to detail.

I also bought Cure gel based on the recommendation of friends – it’s become one of my favorite products in my skincare routine! Very gentle exfoliator and it really works. I already bought a refill on Amazon here for what I think is a good price, especially when you take into account how annoying it was to bring this big bottle back from Japan. I actually have no idea what the pink foam things next to the Aqua gel is- but I’ll probably try it out on a homebody day in case the results are disastrous!

Finally I wanted to share with you all the only makeup item I had ever used from Japan prior to this trip – Yojiya oil blotting papers. Yojiya is based in Kyoto and all around the city you can find their shops. They are most famous for their blotting papers and for good reason – I have never found  better blotting papers than those made in Japan (Tatcha’s, another favorite, are made in Japan as well).

After trying a multitude of products over the last few months, my verdict on Japanese makeup was uniformly positive. I loved the products I tried out (especially the liquid eyeliners) and found that there was a great amount of attention to detail in packaging and applicators. I also just felt that the products were gentler to my skin, without unnecessary additives. That being said, I didn’t think there was anything outrageously better than the Western brands I’ve tried (again, except for the eyeliners).

I’m curious now – have you all tried Japanese (or Asian) makeup? Do you love it, and what are your recommendations? Do you prefer them over Western brands?

Jul 022012
 

Hello and welcome to the final post from my trip to Japan! Prior posts are right below.

Japan – Conrad Tokyo and Ginza
Japan – Sumo and Takazawa
Japan- Shiraume Ryokan
Japan – Arashiyama and Kinana Ice Cream
Japan – Park Hyatt Tokyo

Since we were traveling back to San Francisco through Tokyo (Narita), we decided to make our way back from Kyoto and spend the last few days in Tokyo unwinding. While we really enjoyed our stay at The Conrad, my husband and I wanted to try out a different hotel in another location. We enjoyed our stay at the Park Hyatt Vendome and thus wanted to try out probably the most famous location of the brand – the Park Hyatt Tokyo.

Our room was very spacious (though not as large as our suite at the Conrad) and had a beautiful view of Yoyogi Park. I wish I had take more photos – this photo one of the hotel’s, though our room was very similar. This is weird but the room smelled great too!

When we arrived, we found some little treats waiting for us.

I was ESPECIALLY obsessed with this dessert from Chocolatier Masale. Obsessed! It was a chocolate bar with dried fruits and nuts on top and this amazing nougat wafer inside. I wish we’d had time to go here, I’d recommend a trip to this shop for anybody visiting Tokyo! Japan has such amazing sweets. Thanks Park Hyatt!

Our first night back in Tokyo, we arrived around ~ 7 PM and were  pretty hungry already. Park Hyatt is located in the Shinjuku area – very bustling with lots of shops and activities going on (though about a 10 minutes walk from the hotel). We hadn’t eaten any ramen yet in Japan so I was really itching to go have my noodle fix. When we got into central Shinjuku, there were so, so many ramen shops that I couldn’t decide. It was almost agonizing – what if I wasted my valuable stomach space on the wrong shop?? In the end I decided to follow the crowd and picked a random shop that seemed to have the longest line.

And of course, the ramen was delicious! Perfectly chewy with amazing soup.

The next day, we just took it easy and walked around. I needed to pick up some snacks as souvenirs for friends and family back home. For our whole trip I kept seeing these “Tokyo Banana” treats around everywhere. I mean, how cool is that name? So finally, I bought two boxes – one to take home and one to eat there since I knew otherwise the curiousity would torture me. They were yummy! Kind of like a fresher, banana Twinkie.

Next, I stocked up on all kinds of goodies for back home (including a giant box of sakura green tea Kit Kat bars!). When we were at the airport I saw nearly all the treats we bought, so in the future I’d probably just save the hassle and buy all of our souveniers before flying out.

These dark chocolate mochi treats below were really popular with my coworkers – I saw there were all kinds of flavors so on a future trip I’m going to try some more. Really good and unfortunately I haven’t been able to find them in the US.

Here are just a few more random photos from our last day. I saw this giant wine bottle in front of a restaurant which I thought was clever – the hours of operation were printed on the label! Plus, I’m always fascinated by household objects taller than me, I think I’m a little bit Napoleonic . Again I subjected my husband to embarrassing picture taking duty.

This next photo I took myself while using a department store restroom. I know toilet jokes in Japan are so cliche but I’d never seen a button which performed this service before. Tee hee hee hee hee! Yes, I’m very juvenile.

….anyway!

After a day of walking around my husband and I were a bit melancholy that our trip was drawing to a close. We both wished that we had could have stayed longer. However, we were still excited about our final dinner in Japan – which was back at our hotel, in The New York Grill.

I’ve never seen Lost in Translation, the Sofia Coppola film which was largely filmed at the Park Hyatt – but I guess a lot of it took place in the New York Grill and Bar. I can see why, because the view was gorgeous. It’s on the top of the hotel – the 52nd floor – with floor to ceiling windows, and you get a wonderful view of Tokyo. There was also a live singer and jazz music both nights we went, making for some very nice ambiance. We actually ate here twice – the night before, unsatisfied by just ramen (hmph) my husband indulged in a late night hamburger snack which he said was “one of the best in his life”.

The bar and the restaurant are attached – the left side is the bar, and the right is the formal dining restaurant. If you’re planning on visiting the New York Bar (it’s one of the most famous in Tokyo) and aren’t staying in the hotel, I might recommend just making reservations at the restaurant, as the Bar will charge a cover charge anyway.

Walking in, you see the chefs hard at work – everything looks incredibly clean, as it should!

I forgot to take a picture of my food before I ate it but it was just a simple salad and then pasta dish. I was already feeling very full from our past week and a half of gorging. My husband however was more ambitious and ordered the New York Grill’s most famous dish – the Kobe Beef. Side note, but did you know that Kobe beef is only available for sale in Japan (and Macau)? All those so-called “Kobe beef” sliders and fusion hamburgers served at your random neighborhood bar aren’t actually real “Kobe” as the sale of it in the US is actually illegal! We had no idea until we were in Japan reading a random guidebook and thus my husband was very excited to try the “real thing.”

After our appetizers the Kobe beef came out. I have to admit that given the ginormous steaks I’m used to in the US, this didn’t look like very much. It was close to $300 for about 6 oz of meat. I don’t really appreciate steaks so I didn’t even try it – but my husband ate every bite luxuriously. “This is the best steak…I’ve ever had!!” he exclaimed. Since my husband regularly eats steaks more than twice the size, I was a little worried he’d be hungry. Apparently though the steak was so rich that he was very full by the end. Very, VERY full. He even had a stomach ache later on in the night. He still proclaimed the pain, “worth it” though. Hmm.

We shared a chocolate molten cake for dessert..and then that was the end of our last dinner in Tokyo.

The next morning, we checked out and headed to Narita for our flight back to the US (on the Friendly Airport Limousine)! It was sad to wave goodbye to the Park Hyatt, what a fabulous hotel and I’d recommend it to anybody visiting Tokyo.

Our final stop in Tokyo was the ANA First lounge to scarf up some food. I love Asian carrier lounges abroad, they always have great offerings. Plus I’m cheap and cannot resist free food. Some yummy rice balls!

I’m used to the alcohol spread but always nice to see sake, I always prefer to drink sake over anything else when flying – it puts me to sleep.

And my favorite part of the ANA Lounge – the Noodle Bar!

I ordered myself a Kakiage Udon and a few minutes later a pretty ANA worker brought it over.

I had a window right by the planes so ate my udon while watching the planes take off. What a wonderful trip and a great way to say “Sayonara” to Japan – for now! Thank you all very much for reading along on my Japan trip and I hope you enjoyed. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask in the comments or you can Facebook or Twitter me!

Jun 222012
 

Hello and welcome to the second (and last) recap of my stay in Kyoto. For other posts in this series, see below:

Japan – Conrad Tokyo and Ginza
Japan – Sumo and Takazawa
Japan- Shiraume Ryokan
Japan – Arashiyama and Kinana Ice Cream
Japan – Park Hyatt Tokyo 

After one of our daily breakfast feasts at Shiraume, my husband and I would wake up and explore a different area of Kyoto. Here are some of the highlights from our sightseeing – from the area of Arashiyama – which is about half an hour’s train ride from Kyoto city center. If you go to Kyoto I’d highly  recommend a side trip to Arashiyama along with the Gold/Silver Pavilion, etc.

I have seen quite a few temples and shrines in Kyoto, but Tenryu-ji is probably my favorite. It was founded in 1339 and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. I love the garden which is around Sogen Pond. When you enter, you join the many other people simply sitting and enjoying the view.

Sogen Pond and the gardens are one of those places where the longer you stare the more lovely it becomes. It was very calming to simply sit, and let your minder wander while looking at the beauty of the area. I’d love to come back one day in the fall or winter – the leaves change color and then snow falls.

Very close to Tenryu-ji (walking distance) are bamboo groves – I love bamboo (my ultimate dream would involve a panda popping out and chewing away) and you can walk down the beautiful paths with natural shade. Isn’t it gorgeous?

You can easily walk through the bamboo groves to the Okochi Sanso, which is what we did. The Okochi Sanso is the home and garden built by the Japanese actor Denjiro Okochi – these grounds were his dream and he apparently spend most of his fortune building it over a period of thirty years! Could you imagine many modern day movie stars doing that? After he died, the grounds were opened to the public.

Denjiro Okochi

After walking around Okochi’s creation and seeing all the thought and care put into it, it’s easy to fall into respectful awe of a man who so clearly valued harmony in nature, and spent so much of his life creating something beautiful. Everything from the buildings…

….to the views from walking paths…

…to the paths themselves.

You could easily spend a few hours just walking around the grounds. I think everybody who was walking around all shared the feeling that Okochi must have been an extraordinary man – there was also a small museum dedicated to photos of Okochi and some of his most famous films and roles. With each ticket you also get a little cup of matcha green tea and a mochi cake, which you can sit and enjoy while having one last stare at the lovely views. Wow!

After spending the morning and most of our afternoon in Arashiyama, my husband and I headed on the train back to the central Kyoto train station. It was a pretty hot day, and so I thought it’d be the perfect opportunity to check out  an ice cream shop recommended by local friends – Kinana!

Kinana according to my friend Tak, was a must try and served the best ice cream in Kyoto. He assured us that it was definitely worth it and that the shop would be easy to find on a famous historic street in Gion. What he neglected to tell us was that there are lots of very famous historic streets in Gion, all which look alike, with lots of shops crammed next to each other, and very few of them had English signs. After quite a while of searching, we finally found the shop.

My husband got the ice cream sampler (from left to right): brown sugar, vanilla and green tea. All of the ice cream at Kinana is hand made with local ingredients and needless to say – was delicious! Each order comes with a little pot of green tea.

I got the “dekitate” flavor, which translated means “fresh,” or “just made”. The flavor I hear changes daily, and the waitress had trouble explaining the day’s flavor to me. All that she could say was that it was some kind of “weed” which quite honestly wasn’t very comforting. What kind of weed? Seaweed? Rag weed? The kinds on your lawn? The kind they talk about all the time where I went to college – in Berkeley, if you get my drift?

After the dish came out and some more back and forth while tasting it, we finally figured out that the flavor was St. John’s Wort. “Oh, yes that’s it!” the waitress said, and quickly produced a pad so she could write it down. And surprisingly – St. John’s Wort dekitate ice cream was very, very delicious. The scoops tasted like they had just been made, and had a very light, smooth texture.

Here you can see some of the details of the ice cream – this was green tea. Just looking at these photos makes me wish I had some Kinana ice cream right now. I certainly miss it!

We had Kinana on our last day in Kyoto, and the next morning came very soon. We waved goodbye to Tomoko (the owner of Shiraume, who walked us out) and hopped on the bullet train for our last few days back in Tokyo. While in the Kyoto train station I saw lots and lots of various mochi treats and bought one in sesame flavor to eat on the train.

I hope you enjoyed this post on Kyoto! What a beautiful city. Stay tuned for the next (and last) post for in series – back in Tokyo!

Jun 112012
 

After about five nights in Tokyo,  my husband and I headed to Kyoto via the bullet train, or shinkansen. For the other parts of this Japan series, please see below.

Japan – Conrad Tokyo and Ginza
Japan – Sumo and Takazawa
Japan- Shiraume Ryokan
Japan – Arashiyama and Kinana Ice Cream
Japan – Park Hyatt Tokyo 

I had purchased two tourist-only tickets for the shinkansen before we arrived which saved us about ~30% of the cost – however the seats were all in unreserved cars so there was a mad dash each time to get a seat and make sure you had somewhere to put your luggage. Next time I might splurge on the better class cars where getting a seat is less stressful!

Before we left our hotel got us a few bento to eat on the train, they were elegant and I felt wasteful throwing away the box.

After a few hours, we arrived in Kyoto and hopped in a cab and headed to our ryokan. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn where you typically sleep on tatami mats and there is great personalized service – I’d liken it to perhaps something like a “Bed & Breakfast” in the United States, but still quite different. Today’s post is going to largely be about the ryokan experience.

Kyoto is a city I’d definitely recommend trying out a ryokan in, especially for first time visitors. In the past I had stayed at Tawaraya  which we originally had booked – it’s a lovely and historic inn and I’d recommend it. However, the room we wanted wasn’t available and so we decided to swap ryokans, which actually worked out even better. We decided on Shiraume, which is located on a very charming street of Gion (the traditional geisha/geiko district). See how beautiful the street is?

A few houses down we located the entrance to Shiraume.

At the entrance we were greeted by a few employees who immediately  took away our luggage, gave us slippers and took us to our upstairs room where we were served some light mochi snacks and tea. Our room was on the second floor and had a great view of the river below – here it is from the outside.

We had wanted a big space (by ryokan standards) and we were really happy with our room. There was a separate dining and sleeping area which made it very comfortable for us – in smaller rooms typically the dining area because the sleeping area later on. Our dining/living space below:

Our sleeping space was very similar in size (I forgot to take photos) only there were very comfortable mats on the ground where we could lie down and rest. We remarked that the rooms were quite big and one of the employees told us that it was because in traditional times, people were taxed based on how big their houses were via tatami mats – so if you had a residence that was of the size of 10 tatami mats, you paid a certain amount of tax, multiplied by 10 mats. In Kyoto they decided to get around it by just making their tatami mats bigger, so that 10 tatami mats in Tokyo = something like 8 or 6 tatami mats in Kyoto. So Kyoto ryokans tend to be larger. Interesting fact right?

We also had a private bathroom in our room (smaller rooms sometimes share a bath). The bath had a cypress wood soaking tub which was really relaxing.

There were also specially selected local toiletries from all around Kyoto.

One thing to note about most ryokans is that they typically include board (breakfast and dinner), with the dinner being elaborate kaiseki or multi-course feasts. A nice thing about Shiraume is that dinner is optional (whereas at places like Tawaraya, there is no choice – you have dinner included each night, with the extra cost). We opted to have dinner one night in at Shiraume and left the next night open so we could explore other Kyoto options.

Around 7 PM, there was a knock on our door and several women came in to ready the dining table for dinner. Then our host (and Shiraume’s owner) Tomoko came in and started off the meal by asking me to choose a cup I liked for hot sake from the ryokan’s collection.

Since my husband ordered cold sake, he had a separate selection of cups to choose from and also had his sake poured from this beautiful vessel.

Here is lovely Tomoko pouring sake while employees served the first dish of the night.

The first dish on the beautiful serving platter  - the cloth napkin you see had Shiraume’s logo on it and Tomoko graciously said it was ours to keep (it’s in our kitchen now!)

The first dish was a medley of assorted light appetizers, including an amazing rice/sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves. I have to confess that I still sick at this time and couldn’t remember all the details of the dishes and so my descriptions will not do them justice at all!

This was another light appetizer served in broth…I loved the presentation, see the birds?

Some various sashimi  -  I adore the little butterfly!

The next dish was lightly battered tempura with a few dipping options to the right of it.

This was a sukiyaki/hot pot with kobe beef in it – the soup in this was one of the most delicious beef soups I have ever had! Wow.

This was a light palate cleanser – mushroom and vegetables with caviar on top.

Some rice, a few more pieces of sashimi, miso soup and hot tea to round out the savory portions of the meal.

And finally dessert – a delicious fresh black sesame ice cream with local fruit.

After dinner we had major food coma and fell asleep almost immediately – some artwork that was in the corner by my mattress.

The next morning, we opted for a one Japanese style breakfast and one Western style breakfast and a feast was brought to our room! Everything was so delicious and fresh just like the night before, and Tomoko gave us a wonderful explanation of each dish. My husband and I shared everything.

A great example of the thought and detail that was put into each dish – this was our fruit plate.

Overall I loved our experience at Shiraume – it was beautiful, clean, hospitable and the food was amazing. The two aspects that were the most impressive for me about Shiraume are both very difficult to show in photographs – the freshness and local aspects of the food, and the wonderful service. All of the food served was so fresh and clearly chosen for the spring season. Tomoko also took care to explain each dish carefully when it was served, and tell us where the ingredients were from – pears from Fuji region, beef from Kobe, etc.

The service was also wonderful and so personalized – as I mentioned earlier I was still quite sick and Tomoko made me a mix of honey, hot water and lemon and brought it up repeatedly over the days we were there, checking on me and making sure I was feeling well. The whole time we were there we felt like we were in the best of hands and all our needs were being taken care of. It’s a unique experience and level of service that you don’t find at many hotels or inns anymore.

Thank you for reading about my time so far in Kyoto! Have you ever stayed at a ryokan before? And if you have any recommendations for fabulous hotels/resorts/inns – please share!

 

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